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mardybear |
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| Posted: Saturday, June 16, 2018 at
3:21:40 PM |
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Strategy and Tips - Tiger Woods 99 PGA Tour Golf
About 20 years late, tips and guidelines for Tiger Woods 99 gameplay. Some
information may be relevant to newer releases, much is TW99 specific,
my game version.
Tips for newer Tiger Woods 99 players, plus some useful general tips.
Based on 3-click swing, CUSTOM level using realism options, see realism post
above. Within game limitations, this provides the most player input and
realistic play possible.
This writer's opinions and observations only, feel free to modify or correct.
I am an avid player, not an expert. After many years of play, i still make
frequent shot 'mistakes' during planning and/or execution. I still prefer to
play with mulligans enabled to perform post-mortem analysis and determine where
the shot went wrong.
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mardybear |
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| Posted: Saturday, June 16, 2018 at
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General:
* Practice all lies to improve skills. From the driving range -> 'driving range'
-> settings menu -> choose lie. Options: rough (buried), rough (flyer), sand
(buried), tee/fairway, rough, heavy rough, sand, downhill, uphill.
* Although the driving range is okay (drives, chips and putts), the best
practice is playing actual courses.
* Practice makes perfect, play multiple courses to improve skills. Players who
prefer realistic courses should still play some 'fantasy' courses. Many
realistic course shots will feel benign after experiencing some fantasy course
holes.
* Enable and use mulligans to practice difficult and/or rare shot situations.
* The overhead map red/white/blue arcs specify 100/150/200 yards to the hole,
they provide a visual scale to estimate distances.
* Most 3rd party courses do not fully populate the overhead map, always scan the
fairway to visualize unmapped obstacles, such as trees.
* In some situations, such as chipping out of forested rough, the Rotate View
feature may provide a better view.
* Study shots beforehand and consider ground surface, ball lie, distance to hole
or target area, elevation changes, ground slope, traps and obstacles, wind
direction and speed, club choice, shot type, ball arc, fade or draw, etc.
* Confirm the default club before shot planning. For example, an iron will
occasionally be provided by default when a fairway wood may be better.
* Plan 1-2 shots ahead to optimize ball placement and positioning on the course.
* Anticipate ball behaviour when it lands in the target area, whether it will
have a tendency to stay put, roll forward, backspin or bounce at an angle. Ball
behaviour is based on multiple factors, including club and shot type, shot arc,
elevation change, wind speed and direction, ground slope and smoothness, etc.
* Right-click and drag the aim arrow left/right on the fairway view to set up
fades and draws, right-click again to cancel.
* Right-clicking the shot arrows can usually be used to reset that component of
the shot. For example, right-click the loft arrow to reset any loft changes or
the aim arrow to cancel fade/draw.
* Keep it simple for a higher probability of consistent, lower scores. As a
general rule, minimize modifying shot arc and draw/fade as well as fancy and
risky shots. On most holes, settling for par is better than taking risky shots
that may result in a course penalty or require chipping out of trouble for a
bogey or double bogey.
* When shot planning, use the 'reset' button if unhappy with shot modifications,
then set up again.
* The aim arrow, and yellow line on the overhead map, show how far the ball will
carry (ie. travel before landing) with the selected club if using 100% shot
power and 100% accuracy. It does NOT factor distance changes related to wind
speed/direction or how far the ball will bounce or roll after impact. When
playing 'Targeting arc: unadjusted', it also does not factor stroke resistance,
such as rough and sand. Adjust shot power accordingly.
* Stay alert as loss of concentration and mental mistakes happen during both
shot planning and execution.
* With practice shot planning becomes intuitive and playing skill improves.
* Perform 1-2 practice swings for a better final shot. Right-click the swing
meter to initiate a practice stroke. Different clubs, shot types and distances
provide a different swing meter speed and rhythm. When ready, left-click the
swing meter to initiate the actual shot.
* Consistent gameplay is important. Unless intentionally playing a draw or fade,
aim for 100% shot accuracy, indicated by a green accuracy bar. Shot planning is
less beneficial if the final shot is not executed accurately.
* Avoid errant hooks and slices. It is usually best to adjust shot direction via
aim and draw/fade arrows, instead of intentionally playing a draw or fade via
the swing meter accuracy bar, which can easily become inadvertent hooks and
slices.
* For consistent and often better scores, it may be beneficial to lay up shots
to avoid traps and obstacles.
* Allow a safe buffer from water traps and sloped ground towards water. Consider
the one stroke Water penalty unforgivable, even if it means digging out of sand
or the rough instead.
* Avoid playing too close to out of bounds areas, which results in a one stroke
penalty and forces a rehit from the original ball lie. Some 3rd party courses
have tight out of bounds, sometimes close to the fairway or green. The overhead
map perimeter signifies out of bounds.
* Allow a safe buffer from bunkers and sloped ground towards bunkers, it is
easier to chip out of the rough than sand.
* When shot planning determine whether it is better to go under, over or around
a given obstacle.
* Reduce shot arc to reduce the affect of wind, shoot underneath obstacles and
increase the potential of forward roll.
* Increase shot arc to utilize wind, clear over obstacles, increase backspin or
stick a shot on the green.
* Fades and draws are useful to counter or accentuate crosswind, follow fairway
curves and doglegs, approach greens from a safer angle, etc. Use them
judiciously, however, as 'fancy' shots increase the potential for error.
* Demonstrate sportsmanlike behaviour even when playing solo. With rare
exception, stay on the fairway and follow the intended path. A hole layout that
can be exploited for a lower score by significantly shortcutting the intended
route is not realistic and should be redesigned. If redesign is not feasible,
play the hole as originally intended and congratulate yourself for sportsmanlike
behaviour.
* Review the scorecard at the end of a round to identify holes over par, then
select and play the problematic holes in practice mode with mulligans enabled.
* As the quality of 3rd party courses vary significantly, it is useful to
preview the course by playing the first round in practice mode, which allows
skipping any shots or holes that are unplayable. For example, unrealistic tee
distance, unplayable slopes or greens, poorly placed holes.
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mardybear |
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| Posted: Saturday, June 16, 2018 at
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Keyboard Control:
* Though mouse oriented, many actions can be done with keyboard, experiment.
* The escape key (Esc) can also be used to exit various setting screens.
* During play, the escape key toggles the settings menu on/off.
* Use tab, arrow and Enter keys to navigate and select menu items.
* Press and hold the left/right arrow keys, while holding a driver or iron, to
quickly rotate view.
* Use the up/down arrows to move the aim arrow, club selection automatically
changes based on distance.
* Tap the up/down/left/right arrow keys for decent aim and distance control,
rather than mouse dragging the aim arrow.
* The swing meter can be fully operated via spacebar (3 presses), useful for
players with hand tremors or poor mouse control. To initiate a practice swing,
hold down Shift when first depressing the spacebar.
* If fast play is deactivated, press Enter key to proceed to next shot, easier
than mouse clicking OK every time.
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mardybear |
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| Posted: Saturday, June 16, 2018 at
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Swing Meter:
* The swing meter is the primary player interface during play, affecting shot
power and accuracy.
* For reference, each swing meter notch represents a 10% shot power increment.
* Unless very skilled, absolutely necessary or the fairway/green is generous,
avoid shot power >95-100%. The overswing area (shot power >100%) increases swing
meter speed and exaggerates mistakes, increasing probability of a hook or slice.
* Be aware of a tendency to inadvertently miss more shots with either a draw or
fade, then gently compensate to improve swing accuracy. Although an ongoing
challenge, practice over many courses or even years improves accuracy.
* For long straight drives the perfect swing meter result is 12 o'clock, maximum
power before risky overswing area, and 6 o'clock, hitting the club's sweet spot.
In reality, aim for 90%-95% shot power to avoid overswing errors. Also err on
the 'safe' side of the accuracy meter, left or right depending on wind direction
and hazzards, to stay out of trouble.
* The swing meter can be exploited by avoiding the shot strength click and
allowing the power meter to go to fullest strength (full overswing). This
provides absolute maximum shot power and essentially a two-click swing, clicking
for accuracy only. This makes swing meter rhythm easier to predict and with
practice could be exploited for a superb long game. This writer chooses not to
use this 'feature', which should have been bug fixed during development.
* When possible modify club and shot type to avoid using <50% of the swing
meter, as quick succession shot strength and accuracy meter mouse clicks will
likely reduce shot accuracy. Exception, tap-in gimme putts are generally easy
even with <50% swing meter. Practice swings are especially important when
attempting chips requiring <50% shot power.
* Swing meter speed affects the probability of an accurate shot, slower speed is
easier:
- Putt: Slowest swing meter speed.
- Pitch, chip and bump chips (<60 yards): Medium swing meter speed.
- Full swing (driver or iron): Fast swing meter speed.
- Full swing with >100% shot power: Fastest swing meter speed.
* Exercise 3-click swing meter flexibility. If the first power meter click is
accidentally too long or too short, on-the-fly adjust the second accuracy meter
click to play a fade or draw to your advantage. As the shot process happens
quickly, potential adjustments need to be considered BEFORE taking the shot.
* Examples of swing meter flexibility:
- An accidental short shot towards a front bunker protected green could be
played with an on-the-fly accuracy meter fade or draw into adjacent rough
instead of the more difficult bunker.
- A right-handed player with an accidental long shot towards a green protected
on the left (draw) and back sides by bunkers, may play an on-the-fly fade. This
will reduce shot power and avoid both bunkers.
- A right-handed player with a long drive that runs parallel to a lake on the
right (fade) side, should intentionally error slightly towards the draw side
when clicking the accuracy meter to ensure staying out of the water.
- An accidental heavy putt with a questionable break down to the left towards
the edge of the green could on-the-fly be intentionally struck to veer further
right. If the slope is more severe than anticipated, the adjustment may even
result in a sunk putt, rather than overshoot the green.
- Playing with wind gusts, a moderate crosswind that becomes strong just as the
swing meter is activated, on-the-fly adjust shot draw or fade to compensate.
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mardybear |
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| Posted: Saturday, June 16, 2018 at
3:39:10 PM |
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Drives:
* Every shot is important, a good initial drive sets up the rest of the hole.
* Drives from tee are easy to adjust for arc, fade/draw and distance.
* The odd hole may not have a level tee box, double check and compensate.
* Long drives generally improve chances of getting on greens in regulation.
* Generous fairways provide acceptable opportunities to risk >100% shot power
(overswing area).
* Depending on hole design, it may be beneficial to lay up to avoid traps and
obstacles, sometimes even a long iron off the tee.
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mardybear |
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| Posted: Saturday, June 16, 2018 at
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Chips:
* Good chips are essential to reach greens in regulation and set up easy putts.
* Always check the default club and swing type when planning a chip. The shot
may default to 'full' swing, even when within range for a more accurate swing.
* To improve accuracy utilize the most appropriate chip for the situation:
pitch < 60 yards, chip <30 yards, bump <15 yards.
* Adjust arc depending on wind, elevation change, traps and obstacles, etc.
* To chip underneath tree branches, use a long iron and lower the shot arc. If
still inadequate, use a pitch or chip swing, rather than full swing, just to get
back onto the fairway.
* To chip over obstacles, such as trees, shorter irons provide higher shot arcs.
It may be preferable to use a shorter iron with a taller arc, to provide extra
clearance and room for error, even if the resulting shot is shorter.
* The aim arrow shows the anticipated shot arc if the ball is hit with 100%
accuracy from a fairway lie. When chipping from sand or rough, the actual shot
distance and arc will be significantly less than anticipated.
* Determine the best way to approach a green. Is it safer to run up the ball or
attempt to chip over traps with backspin.
* Long irons (eg. 2 iron) will cause forward ball roll, while shorter irons
(eg. 9 iron, sand wedge) will cause backspin.
* All factors being equal, the ball will have a tendency to roll forward when
chipping to an elevated green or target area and backspin when chipping to a
depressed green or target area.
* When chipping onto the green, when feasible adjust shot distance to roll
forward or back spin two feet across the hole. This gives the ball the potential
to find the hole, possibly yielding a birdie or eagle.
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mardybear |
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| Posted: Saturday, June 16, 2018 at
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Putts:
* Try to consistently complete holes with one or two putts, toggle the scorecard
to review putts per hole.
* Unless the putt is a treacherous downhill or hole placement is very close to
the edge of the green, adjust putt distance to pass the hole by ~2-3 feet.
Obviously a short putt will never be successful, this provides the best
opportunity to sink a putt.
* Reading putts without green grids or putt lines is very challenging, try to
get the first putt within 3 feet of the hole. Once accustomed to playing without
green grid or putt line visual aids, using them feels like cheating.
* Always check the default distance range when planning the putt. Using realism
settings, the preselected distance is often inadequate to reach the hole, unless
ball lie, slope and shot accuracy are perfect. In this situation, it is often
beneficial to use the next furthest distance target. For example, on a 3' putt
with default 4' range, adjust to an 8' range and take an ~5' putt.
* The bullseye target overlay on the putting green functions similar to the aim
arrow on the fairway. If the putt is uphill and the bullseye target is in front
of the hole, even 100% shot strength with 100% accuracy will never reach the
hole. Adjust to the next furthest putt range (eg. 4' -> 8').
* Similar to above, if the bullseye target is significantly further than the
hole on a downhill putt, adjust to the next shortest putt range and review putt
distance. Using the most appropriate putt distance range provides the most
accurate swing meter potential.
* Review ball lie, if it is angled adjust aim to compensate.
* Determine if there is an overall slope to the green or obvious high/low areas.
If the ball lie is not angled and unable to visualize any definitive slope(s),
it is usually better to putt straight for the hole rather than make an incorrect
guess. You may get lucky and sink the shot, otherwise try for a two putt hole.
* The player's head often obscures the putt line and hole. Rotating the camera
is not desirable as it requires reading the green at an off angle. Temporarily
change the shot type from a 'putt' to a 'full' swing. The golfer switches to a
driver and stands more upright away from the ball, providing improved line of
sight. Temporarily click the aim arrow to the extreme left or right to get it
out of view. It is now possible to properly visualize the putt line and
elevations. When ready to take the shot, select 'reset' to change back to a
putter, adjust the aim arrow and complete the putt.
* When playing a 3rd party fantasy course or poorly designed green, in rare
instances the green slope and elevation change may be too extreme to putt in any
normal fashion. Attempt 1-2 regular putts first, taking mulligans if activated.
If the slope is deemed unreasonable, 'apologize' to the course official and use
a short iron to 'bump' chip over the 'barrier'.
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mardybear |
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| Posted: Saturday, June 16, 2018 at
3:47:23 PM |
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Ground Surface and Ball Lie:
* With the 'Targeting arc: unadjusted' option, the aim arrow (estimated ball
flight distance) does not consider ball lie and ground conditions.
* The ground surface and ball lie signifcantly affect the required shot power.
* Although the aim arrow provides the estimated landing location of the ball, it
does not consider how far a ball may bounce or roll after impact. The type of
ground surface signficantly affects roll resistance. The least to most roll
resistance of common surfaces: green, fairway, rough, deep rough, sand. Play
options, such as fast greens, provide even less roll resistance.
* Ball lie affects shot arc. For example, a chip from the rough will generally
arc less than a fairway chip, a downhill lie less than an uphill lie.
* Level tee shots provide the best platform for a solid shot.
* Fairway shots are usually straightforward, adjust aim and/or arc to compensate
for sloped ground.
* Chipping from most other surfaces is more difficult and may restrict shot
options. For example, it is not possible to adjust draw/fade when chipping from
the rough.
* Chipping from sand is the most difficult ground surface to master.
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mardybear |
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Posts: 141 |
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| Posted: Saturday, June 16, 2018 at
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Wind:
* With the 'Targeting arc: unadjusted' option, the aim arrow (estimated ball
flight distance) does not consider wind speed and direction, adjust shot power
and aim estimates accordingly.
* Shots with the wind will carry further, shots against the wind carry less far.
* Strong wind from behind causes more forward ball roll, strong wind against
accentuates backspin.
* In general, use more shot power, more club (eg. 8 vs 9 iron) or lower the shot
trajectory against a strong wind. To utilize a strong tail wind, slightly
increase shot trajectory. Only 'slightly', as increasing arc too much will only
result in an up/down shorter length shot.
* Reduce shot arc to minimize the affect of wind, increase arc to take advantage
of the wind.
* The effect of wind on ball direction and carry distance is proportional to the
hang time of the shot. For example, the wind effect will be more noticable
driving a ball from an elevated tee compared to a short bump chip to the green.
* High lofted shots, such as chips, are very succeptible to the wind.
* Change club type as needed to avoid or take advantage of the wind. For
example, a 9 iron is often good alternative to a lofted wedge during strong
crosswinds.
* Compared to a normal or 'full' swing, the following chip shots are
progressively less affected by wind:
- Pitch (60 yard distance).
- Chip (30 yard distance).
- Bump (15 yard distance).
* Manually adjust the aim arrow left/right to compensate for wind direction and
intensity and other factors, such as unlevel lie, uneven target area ground
surface, etc. The amount of adjustment required is variable and will become more
intuitive with experience.
* If wind gusts are enabled, monitor wind speed and direction closely and
micro-adjust final shot strength and direction as needed.
* To maintain sportsmanlike conduct, avoid monitoring wind speed and direction
changes for more than a few seconds before taking the shot.
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mardybear |
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| Posted: Saturday, June 16, 2018 at
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Elevations:
* Shots to higher elevations will be shortened in distance with less hang time,
adjust club, power meter and/or arc.
* Shots to lower elevations will be longer distance with longer hang time, use
less club, power meter and/or arc.
* Uphill chips to a plateaued green tend to roll forward more, downhill chips
will backspin more.
* Uphill chips to elevated greens are tricky. Ensure adequate arc and shot power
to clear the elevation but not too hard as the ball will have a tendency to keep
rolling after impact. It is often better to increase shot arc to compensate.
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mardybear |
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| Posted: Saturday, June 16, 2018 at
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Ball Carry and Roll:
* Although ball carry (flight) and roll (after impact) distances are hard to
estimate, they are very important factors determining shot success. For example,
a chip that impacts the rough may not roll far enough to find the green. Or a
drive towards a dogleg that rolls too far will end up in the rough.
* Approximate roll distance based on a <50 yard fairway chip that lands on a
level 'normal' green with no elevation change:
- 2 iron: > 10 yards forward roll.
- 9 iron: 1 yard forward roll.
- Lofted wedge: slight hop, minimal roll.
* Roll distances vary significantly depending on the club used, shot type,
ground surface, slope, elevation change, etc.
* When out of range for an iron, the strong and aggressive trajectory of a
driver makes it difficult to 'stick' a shot on the green. The ball will roll
quickly and may skitter off the green. Options include: use less shot power,
increase shot arc, use a smaller driver and/or land the ball on fairway in front
of the green to scrub off speed.
* With practice and experience, carry and roll distance estimates during shot
planning become more intuitive. Few shots are more satisfying than a drive or
chip that gently rolls towards the hole!
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mardybear |
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| Posted: Saturday, June 16, 2018 at
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Shot Power Adjustments (drives and chips):
* Shot power adjustment guidelines using realism settings, which includes
playing with the 'Targeting arc: unadjusted' option. Based on normal fairway
and greens, heavy rough.
* Modify adjustments to reflect play style, game setting changes and course
design specifications.
* Remember the aim arrow, and yellow line on the overhead map, automatically
adjusts estimated ball carry (flight distance) based on club selection, loft,
draw/fade and elevation, assuming 100% power meter use and 100% shot accuracy.
It is up to the player to make adjustments to the power meter based on accuracy,
ground surface, slope, lie, ball roll, wind speed and direction.
* Similarly, the swing meter also displays the numeric carry distance of a
potential shot, given the selected club and shot type, assuming 100% shot power
and 100% accuracy.
* Simple head math is required to accurately plan and estimate shots.
* Come up with a 'system' to estimate the most appropriate shot power without
forgetting any variables. For example:
- Review distance to target area, including carry flight and roll.
- Subtract estimated ball roll to determine carry distance.
- Adjust shot power for lie and ground surface resistance.
- Adjust shot power for elevation change or shot arc changes.
- Adjust shot power for wind speed and direction.
- Add 5-10% shot power to compensate for inaccurate shot.
- Take 1-2 practice swings as desired.
- Take final shot.
* Adjustments may be cumulative or counteract each other depending on the
situation. For example, a strong tail wind may negate having to add shot power
to chip up a slight elevation change to reach the target area. Or chipping out
of sand against a strong wind will require even more shot power.
* When planning drive and chip distance, subtract any estimated forward roll or
add estimated backspin distance to the hole/target area distance. For example, a
200 yard 2 iron chip to an equal elevation green may be estimated to roll 25
yards following impact. The actual carry distance estimate would, therefore, be
~175 yards. Base your shot power adjustments on making this 175 yard shot.
* Modify full swing (driver, full swing irons) shot power up to 10% with a
strong direct for/against wind or 5-10% when playing into or with a crosswind.
The estimate may be doubled, up to 20%, with high loft clubs or reduced when
playing low loft shots, such as 'chips' and 'bumps'.
* Drive from tee. No adjustments needed due to shot resistance.
* Fairway drive or chip. No adjustments needed due to shot resistance.
* Chip from first cut. Add 10% on the shot meter to compensate.
* Chip from rough. Add up to 40% on the shot meter to compensate.
* Chip from rough, flyer lie. Often no appreciable change detected. Add up to
40% on the shot meter to compensate, just like 'chip from rough' above.
* Chip from rough, buried. Add up to 50% on the shot meter to compensate.
* Chip from heavy rough, good. Add up to 50% on the shot meter to compensate.
* Chip from deep rough. Add 60% on the shot meter to compensate.
* Sand chip. Double the required shot power, results may be variable.
* Sand chip, buried. Double the required shot power, then add an additional
10-20% on the shot meter to compensate for the buried ball.
* Dirt chip. Usually similar to sand, double the required shot power.
* Golf cart trail chip. Adds little resistance, chip as if on fairway.
* 'Unique' ground chip. Unique ground is occasionally located around landscaped
vegetation. Unless the course designer modfied the resistance, chip as if on
fairway, as it unrealistically adds no resistance.
* Drive or chip distance should be adjusted approximately plus/minus one-half
to one full yard for every one foot of elevation change. For example, for a 10
foot rise in elevation add 5-10 yards to the shot distance.
* Downhill lie. Increase loft, shot distance or use more club to compensate,
expect less hang time. Modify wind adjustment accordingly, which will have less
affect on these shots.
* Uphill lie. Reduce loft, shot distance or use less club to compensate, expect
more hang time. Modify wind adjustment accordingly, as these shots will be more
affected by the wind.
* As inaccurate shots affect ball distance, players unable to consistently hit
on or very near the accuracy meter bar sweet spot should automatically add
5-10% shot power to compensate for probable lost stroke efficiency.
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mardybear |
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| Posted: Saturday, June 16, 2018 at
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Shot Power Adjustments (putts):
* Uphill putt. Increase putt distance approximately 1 foot for every 2 inch
slope increase.
* Downhill putt. Reduce putt distance approximately 1 foot for every 3 inch
elevation drop.
* Unless the putt is a treacherous downhill, add 2-3 distance to ensure the putt
will reach the hole, especially if 100% swing meter accuracy is not achieved.
* Putting from the fringe does not significantly affect putt distance.
* Note these rules of thumb work best on gentle sloped ground and do not hold
true over extreme or unevenly sloped surfaces.
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Gunpower61 |
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Belgium |
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B-Day: 4/30/1961 (63) |
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| Posted: Saturday, June 16, 2018 at
3:58:54 PM |
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| Big thanks Mardybear, for the great info, much appreciated. |
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mardybear |
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| Posted: Monday, August 27, 2018 at
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Tiger_Woods_99-2001_Greatest_Hits
After several years, sometimes months off, finally played through all available
Tiger Woods 99-2001 courses. Kept ~90 out of ~250 courses. Courses listed below
are 'keepers', players looking for good courses won't be disappointed. Thanks to
every course contributor, playing your creations was very enjoyable.
Subjective course rating system, based on personal notes:
One star: Nice with minor issue(s), such as an unpolished green, back tee too
far from fairway, poorly placed out of bounds, etc.
Two star: Beautiful and enjoyable throughout, excellent game play.
Three star: Exceptional, very beautiful layout, contours and landscape,
excellent playability and strategy and/or custom objects and backgrounds.
Notes:
The file names below were modified to my preference but should resemble the
download link course name. Course download links can be found on page one of
this thread or the EA Sports FTP site mentioned earlier.
Some courses won't work without modifying the course directory. Review how to
install Tiger Woods 99-2001 courses. Ensure the unzipped course folder name
matches exactly the course's *.viv file name, including any spaces or
underscores. Also ensure there are no nested sub-directories:
- Correct: course_folder -> content containing *.viv file.
- Incorrect: course_folder -> course_folder -> content containing *.viv file.
There are two par 3 courses listed below, appended PAR3.
There is a par 6 on hole #12 of the MtDovre course.
* One star:
AftonMountain
Ardsley
BahiaOceansCourse
BelleRiverGolfCC
CarolinePlace
CenturionEstatesCC
CherryCreek
ConcordHills
FoxGlenGC
FujiyamaGC
Glanbrook
Izu
Knollwood
LilburnCC
LittlePineGolfClub
MeadowsFarmGolfCourse
PalmLakes
SebringCountryClub
TahoeValley
TigersLayer
** Two star:
Avenal2k
BelleVista
BoltonValley
BurrowsFarm
ButterlyHills
ChicagoRun
ClubMaya
Congressional
DorrieExecutive3 PAR3
EaglesNorth
GiantOaks
GreyBridge
JacksonPointe
KingsForest
KittyhawkDunes
KotaPermaiGCC
LaJollaDeLaCosta
LegendsNational
LongBeach
MariposaMeadows
MtFuji
PaseoDeAngelo
RanchoSaguaro
RegalKings
SavannahPlantation
ShastaLake
SherwoodWay
SinaloaGolfResort
SinaloaGolfResort2
SleepyRidgeGolfTrail
SweetGrass2K
TavoyBay
TazzsLinks
TealBend
Templemead
TheGolfClub
TheLinksOfToyamaBay
TheWestBrooks
TobaccoRoad
Vendel
Warwick
WentworthWest
WindhamHills
*** Three star:
CascadeCreek
Cemetary
Centennial
CoyotesDen
Dwaish
EagleValley
EmeraldPines
Fortune
FoxFire
HiddenCoast
KawaTaniGCC
KaylinValley
LenoraChurch
LotusLeave_GCC_2K1
MissionTrails
MohawkValley
MtDovre
MtDovre101
OkinawaIsland
OldMill
PineAbbey
Pines
Rio
RoseValleyCountryClub
Sacramento
ShinchiExecutiveCourse PAR3
VirtualPark
Wheelhouse
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mardybear |
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| Posted: Saturday, September 15, 2018 at
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Just wanted to thank coursddownloadsDOTcom, especially Gunpower61, for keeping these good old golf games alive, hosting files and maintaining the forum. I'll be moving on to other projects, probably replay my favourite old courses this winter. If anyone needs my files, such as Course Architect libraries, or wants to share more TW99-2001 courses, please update this thread as i won't be logging in much anymore. Take care all.
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Gunpower61 |
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Belgium |
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| Joined: 12/9/2004 |
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B-Day: 4/30/1961 (63) |
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| Posted: Sunday, September 16, 2018 at
8:15:45 AM |
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Hiya mardybear, big thanks for all the posts and the jokes in the Forum.
Don t forget to log in now and then, take care. |
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ramidavis |
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| Posted: Wednesday, November 28, 2018 at
8:58:46 PM |
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I have just discovered a mirror of most of EASports ftp, at:
https://ftp.ea-mirror.net/easports/misc/coursearchitect/courses/99/
browsing the directory will reveal several goodies for the interested.
Enjoy. |
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mardybear |
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| Posted: Friday, May 24, 2019 at
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ramidavis - Nice to see interest in this old classic. The link you posted above is no longer available, tried and failed a couple times last few weeks (ftp.ea-mirror.net/easports/).
Only other place Course Architect 2000 and related development files plus Tiger Woods 99 courses can still be downloaded is from archive.org.
For a list of all available ftp.ea.com files:
https://ia800309.us.archive.org/16/items/ftp_ftp.ea.com_2014.03/2014.03.ftp.ea.com.tar.txt
To download entire collection, warning >30 Gb:
https://archive.org/details/ftp_ftp.ea.com_2014.03
Note this mega-download does not provide additional Tiger Woods 99 courses not already hosted on an earlier page of this thread by this site (coursedownloads.com). The only additional useful files would be Course Architect 2000, the user manual and all the development files (textures, objects, etc).
Nonetheless, nice to know it's still available for anyone interested. |
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mardybear |
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| Posted: Wednesday, December 4, 2019 at
5:07:15 AM |
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Recently discovered the files from the old Electronic Arts FTP site can be individually downloaded. No need to download the entire 33 GB collection, just the file(s) you want, sweet.
1. Go to https://archive.org/details/ftp_ftp.ea.com_2014.03
2. Select 'SHOW ALL'.
3. Select 'View Contents'.
This loads a very long list that takes a while to show in the browser.
Then just select the file(s) you want to download.
The direct link to the megalist:
https://ia800309.us.archive.org/view_archive.php?archive=/16/items/ftp_ftp.ea.com_2014.03/2014.03.ftp.ea.com.tar
Hope you are all well and are enjoying the golf, take care. |
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