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Some simple MUST design rules
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BULLPUPP2
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Posted: Tuesday, July 12, 2011 at 12:58:28 PM | IP Logged

edited by: BULLPUPP2 on Tuesday, July 12, 2011 at 1:06:00 PM
 
Let me first state thay no course or designer is perfect. But I still see basic design flaws in otherwise very nice courses that people have put alot of thought and time into.

I feel that playability is the main objective.

1. Tees must be flat. Not part of it but the whole thing. Not just the back tee but every tee, even if it is not being used. Dont get lazy.Simple enough.

2. Fairways should hold the drive. At least some part should be relatively level, even if it requires a layup.

3. Green slopes. I know this one may have some controversy sinse different playing levels and settings affect it. I understand that it is tough to design a course that is tough enough for novice and still playable on Advanced and Exper and Very Dry. I design all my courses to have FAIR and playable pins on Expert and very dry (;yes VD on Exert or Adv are MUCH faster than VD on Int or Nov). I use the measuring tool and have a max slope of 4-5 up or down for every 10 of distanc around the pin. 5 is a max and although the pin may be playable, (;I consider playable as no roll back) it still may be too difficult and considered Unfair. Disgression must be used here. And dont forget that all custom green textutres are different so on a very fast texture maybe 4 max for 10 should be used. Also 5 up on the high side combined with 5 down on the low side can not have rollback but be rather unfaiir. When the put breaks uphill/downhill and breaks sise to side to you must decrease the slope to be fair. Use your measuring tool!!

4. Seams/tears/edge/spikes, etc. Obviously these are hard to avoid and spot in the CA. To help avoid them I only use minimal shapes till the course is almost finished. Tee, fairway, bunkers and green. I add fringe, cut, light rough etc last and it really helps avoid major seams. Whenever a seam is spotted in game testing, go back to the CA. Find the spot and draw a circle around it. raise by .05 and then smooth a couple times on lowest setting. You can do an entire fairway edge or around a green easily in one shot this way

These are the main playability issues. As for cosmetics and Eye candy that is up to you.

Alway try to get water flat as well as the edges. Looks sloppy and lazy if you dont.

Same for smoothing edges. Try to avoid spikes and rough edges. Looks much nicer and polishes up a course.

Fences, carpaths, parking lots, tennis courts, pools, and overall landscaping and bling is a plus. Just watch your point counts here.
These little things show you care and are not just rushing to get another one out.

These are some simole designing 101 tip that I hope you all can use. Remember quality over quantity.

....Bill 
 
 
 
 

 
Pitbull
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Posted: Tuesday, July 12, 2011 at 1:25:24 PM | IP Logged

Thank You this will extremely helpful to me. 
 
 
 
 

 
axe360
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Posted: Saturday, July 30, 2011 at 10:23:53 AM | IP Logged

edited by: axe360 on Saturday, July 30, 2011 at 5:37:00 PM
 
1 thing I would like to add is Non Reflective water looks horrible.. I have posted potential fixes to this issue, in the past.. It happens to me too but I have always been able to fix it accept once on a course for Homeboy and instead of having that horrible look, he changed to a dirt texture, which IMO was better then looking at that water...

Anytime anyone has troubles with non reflective water, just pm me and I will give you all the tips that have always worked for me.. Not saying you will Always be able to fix it but there are things to try...

That and angular cart paths.. Or not using a pano... 
 
 
 
 

 
BULLPUPP2
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Posted: Saturday, July 30, 2011 at 9:27:53 PM | IP Logged

Alot of courses (including mine) have non-reflecting water lately. I have never been able to repair it. Maybe start a new thread with your possible fixes (unless you already have one that I missed).

Played stock TPC sawgrass and had non-reflecting water there too. Didnt have this prob in 06 so tried an 06 water texture but it didnt help.

....Bill 
 
 
 
 

 
axe360
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Posted: Saturday, July 30, 2011 at 9:32:23 PM | IP Logged

edited by: axe360 on Saturday, July 30, 2011 at 9:38:00 PM
 
Here is the last one that worked for me, Ill look for the other one I posted.
http://www.coursedownloads.com/forum/posts.asp?post=8753

Couldnt find the other one. but basically I will reflatten water then lower or raise the banks of the water sometimes a foot sometimes 3 feet give or take and this has almost always fixed the problem.. I have only been stumped once, on Riverview... Not bragging just saying this has and does work for me.. :) 
 
 
 
 

 
 
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