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| Tiger Woods Golf Forum - Optimising - Page 1 |
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Munroco |
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Scotland |
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| Joined: 10/8/2008 |
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Posts: 427 |
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| Posted: Wednesday, November 10, 2021 at
10:00:55 AM |
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I normally optimise either with or without children at the third mark as it's what I read and was told by other designers when I started. I occasionally go up to the 4th mark for getting rid of creases and sometime I make a very narrow shape, round a fairway for example, and optimise to maximum. The course I am working on has 4 zones (seperate areas to save having large point counts). As an experiment I've optimised one of the zones at maximum (with children). Doing this seems to have eliminated a lot of creases. So far I'm not seeing any adverse effects. I'm thinking the greens are likely to be a bit less smooth, so I'll smooth them seperately and optimise as normal (ie at the third mark). Anyone have any thoughts on what problems this may cause?
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Munroco Signature |
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Bobby Bolin |
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United States of America |
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| Joined: 7/28/2003 |
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B-Day: 5/5/1988 (36) |
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Posts: 1,427 |
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| Posted: Wednesday, November 10, 2021 at
12:26:15 PM |
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| The biggest thing with the greens is that optimizing will change the contours. For large areas I'll optimize at a higher level. I very rarely optimize greens and do bunkers at 3. |
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Quietly |
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Canada |
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| Joined: 8/28/2004 |
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B-Day: 12/12/1800 (223) |
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Posts: 297 |
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| Posted: Wednesday, November 10, 2021 at
1:18:48 PM |
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Everyone has their own methods. Like Bobby, I try to avoid optimizing greens. Generally, I optimize everything else at 3. I hate that sometimes some areas, especially the slopes next to bunkers, get a little angular and less smooth, but I find I do so much landshaping on my courses that I have to optimize everything to 3 just to get under the magical 300k point mark.
When I do optimize greens, it's just to the first mark. Sometimes I have greens that can get into the 8-10k point mark, but level 1 optimizing can get that down under 1k without sacrificing too much smothness or detail.
On occaision, I will do a full plot optimization on 1 (taking the base layer and optimize with children which is everything). That's a last resort if I'm over the limit and can't seem to find enough area to cut back.
To your initial quesrion, the problem I would see is simply that you'll need to smooth the greens a lot to get them rounded and smooth again and that will cost you a lot of the topographical variety of the putting surface. It would have to be almost flat by the end. If you want to optimize your greens like this then I would suggest exaggerating the contours of your greens before optimizing, so after the smoothing, the greens will end up the way you want. In other words, Make the highs higher and the lows lower on the greens so the later smoothing process brings them down to the planned contours. |
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Munroco |
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Scotland |
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| Joined: 10/8/2008 |
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Posts: 427 |
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| Posted: Wednesday, November 10, 2021 at
1:23:00 PM |
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| edited by: Munroco on
Wednesday, November 10, 2021 at
1:28:00 PM
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I''m experimenting atm. I think the way I''ll go is to optimise everything at max, then create shapes 1ft smaller within the major shapes, ie greens and fairway, and give them a good smoothing and then optimise at level 3. I''d hope the outcome will be a lot less creases, and no loss of smoothness.
Another way to do it would be to make the cut and fringe shapes a foot wider on each side and optimise these at max, then reduce them to the desired size, (ie I use 4 ft for cut, so I''d add on a foot on each side to make 6 ft, then reduce to 4ft once optimised.
I agree the danger is flattening areas more than I might want, but if I can get the larger elevations done before max optimise, I can then work within the smaller areas like greens without affecting the edges. I don''t mind doing the greens so much but I get very bored going round fairways fixing creases which in a lot of cases are not down to bad design but just bad luck when 2 mesh lines end up close together.
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Munroco Signature |
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| From Carnoustie, the REAL home of golf. |
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